HASKAP |
A Little History
The haskap species lonicera caerulea is native to the northern boreal forests of Asia, Europe and North America, usually found growing in high mountains or low lying wet areas. Historical use of haskap dates back centuries to the people of Hokkaido Island, Japan.
In the 1950’s, Siberian horticulturists collected wild samples and began breeding haskap. Haskap remained relatively unknown in North America until the late 1990’s when tasty cultivars began getting attention. In 1998, the University of Saskatchewan launched its own haskap breeding program. To date, U of S has produced some of the best varieties in the world.
The haskap species lonicera caerulea is native to the northern boreal forests of Asia, Europe and North America, usually found growing in high mountains or low lying wet areas. Historical use of haskap dates back centuries to the people of Hokkaido Island, Japan.
In the 1950’s, Siberian horticulturists collected wild samples and began breeding haskap. Haskap remained relatively unknown in North America until the late 1990’s when tasty cultivars began getting attention. In 1998, the University of Saskatchewan launched its own haskap breeding program. To date, U of S has produced some of the best varieties in the world.
Before You Plant – Choosing and Preparing the Planting Site
Select a planting site that receives 6+ hours of daily sun.
Decide how many plants you want. If you want to grow them as a hedge, space plants 3-4’ apart. If you want freestanding shrubs, space them 4-5’ apart.
Haskap are far more adaptable to wet soils and a broad pH range than most other fruits, though their preference is well-drained, somewhat acidic soil. Soil fertility is important so definitely add 2-6 inches of compost or manure to your garden soil. Adding several inches of peat moss is recommended too.
Ask your local garden centre if you have any specific concerns regarding your garden soil.
Select a planting site that receives 6+ hours of daily sun.
Decide how many plants you want. If you want to grow them as a hedge, space plants 3-4’ apart. If you want freestanding shrubs, space them 4-5’ apart.
Haskap are far more adaptable to wet soils and a broad pH range than most other fruits, though their preference is well-drained, somewhat acidic soil. Soil fertility is important so definitely add 2-6 inches of compost or manure to your garden soil. Adding several inches of peat moss is recommended too.
Ask your local garden centre if you have any specific concerns regarding your garden soil.
When to Plant
Haskap are usually available as early as mid-April. For the first few weeks, either
1. Keep them in a greenhouse, or
2. "Harden them off" (put them outside during the day but bring them inside at night)
By early May, it is normally safe to leave them outside.
Haskap are often available later and can be planted at any time in the growing season.
Haskap are usually available as early as mid-April. For the first few weeks, either
1. Keep them in a greenhouse, or
2. "Harden them off" (put them outside during the day but bring them inside at night)
By early May, it is normally safe to leave them outside.
Haskap are often available later and can be planted at any time in the growing season.
Buying Haskap
Ensure that you’re getting not only two different varieties, but two varieties which are compatible for pollination. Otherwise, no fruit for you! One variety is sometimes considered more desirable (i.e. – has better flavour, size) while the companion/pollinizer variety is primarily meant to help the desirable variety set fruit. The companion variety will still produce fruit.
If you want several haskap bushes, plant 1 pollinizer variety to every 6 of the desired variety plants.
To simplify things, growers often sell a single pot with two compatible varieties in it. If you’re buying individually potted varieties, check the plant tag for the recommended pollination pairing.
Haskap Varieties
Haskap flavour can vary from sweet to bitter to….awful. Fortunately, breeders have worked hard to improve flavour over the last few decades. When picking a variety, the main factors to consider are berry flavour, firmness and size. Many of the varieties available in Canada are Siberian/Canadian introductions released by the University of Saskatchewan.
Ensure that you’re getting not only two different varieties, but two varieties which are compatible for pollination. Otherwise, no fruit for you! One variety is sometimes considered more desirable (i.e. – has better flavour, size) while the companion/pollinizer variety is primarily meant to help the desirable variety set fruit. The companion variety will still produce fruit.
If you want several haskap bushes, plant 1 pollinizer variety to every 6 of the desired variety plants.
To simplify things, growers often sell a single pot with two compatible varieties in it. If you’re buying individually potted varieties, check the plant tag for the recommended pollination pairing.
Haskap Varieties
Haskap flavour can vary from sweet to bitter to….awful. Fortunately, breeders have worked hard to improve flavour over the last few decades. When picking a variety, the main factors to consider are berry flavour, firmness and size. Many of the varieties available in Canada are Siberian/Canadian introductions released by the University of Saskatchewan.
By Bob Bors - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=11795715
Also see the Proven Performer Varieties listed at the top of the page, in the Growing Haskap Overview section.
Varieties to Consider
- Tundra: Exceptionally firm and large berries with a melt-in-your-mouth texture and a high flavour ranking. Grows 4-5’ tall. Excellent for fresh eating, jams/jellies and wine. Pollinate with Honeybee or other recommended variety
- Borealis: Sweet and tangy but softer than Tundra. Often considered the best tasting variety. Grows 4’ tall. Pair with Polar Jewel, Aurora or other recommended variety
- Aurora: Slightly sweeter, larger, more productive and easier to pick than Borealis. Grows 5’ tall. Pair with Borealis, Tundra, or Indigo
- Polar Jewel: Sweet, deep blue berries. Eat fresh or use in baked goods, jams, and jellies. Pair with Tundra or Borealis
- Honeybee: Tall plant produces large, tart blue fruit. Use for making wine, juice, and jellies. Pair with Borealis or Tundra
Planting Time
So you've prepared the planting site and you've got your haskap bushes. Now space your haskap appropriately (refer back to the Before You Plant section if needed).
Water both the plant and the planting hole deeply. Add a handful of bone meal or other similar fertilizer at planting time. Haskap can be planted slightly recessed (1-2” below ground level). Once the bushes are in the ground add 2-4" of bark mulch or rotted sawdust. This will help keep the roots cool and moist. Water the plants once more.
Refer to our Guide to Planting Shrubs for further transplanting instructions.
So you've prepared the planting site and you've got your haskap bushes. Now space your haskap appropriately (refer back to the Before You Plant section if needed).
Water both the plant and the planting hole deeply. Add a handful of bone meal or other similar fertilizer at planting time. Haskap can be planted slightly recessed (1-2” below ground level). Once the bushes are in the ground add 2-4" of bark mulch or rotted sawdust. This will help keep the roots cool and moist. Water the plants once more.
Refer to our Guide to Planting Shrubs for further transplanting instructions.
Post-Planting Care
Since haskap is shallow-rooted, it is critical that the soil never dries out. Water the haskap deeply and infrequently (about once per week), especially during the first few years of growth.
In subsequent seasons, you may need to add more organic matter to maintain the soil's richness.
Haskap does not sucker and needs minimal yearly pruning. In early spring, thin out some of the old branches to maintain air circulation and vigorous growth.
Since haskap is shallow-rooted, it is critical that the soil never dries out. Water the haskap deeply and infrequently (about once per week), especially during the first few years of growth.
In subsequent seasons, you may need to add more organic matter to maintain the soil's richness.
Haskap does not sucker and needs minimal yearly pruning. In early spring, thin out some of the old branches to maintain air circulation and vigorous growth.
Harvesting and Eating
Allow haskap to fully ripen before harvesting – under ripe berries are not pleasant. Ripe berries will have a purple interior.
Ripe berries can even remain edible if they are left on the bushes for several weeks.
Haskap is commonly used to make:
Allow haskap to fully ripen before harvesting – under ripe berries are not pleasant. Ripe berries will have a purple interior.
Ripe berries can even remain edible if they are left on the bushes for several weeks.
Haskap is commonly used to make:
- Wines
- Juices
- Ice creams
- Smoothies
- Sauces and jams
- Baking sweets
Summary
Haskap is:
I’d say that’s a compelling case for growing haskap.
For further reading, check out Haskap Canada page or the University of Saskatchewan’s haskap page.
Haskap is:
- Incredibly hardy, rarely affected by cool springs or harsh winters
- Compact, requiring very little pruning
- Thornless
- Rarely affected by pests or diseases
- Early ripening (up to 2 weeks before strawberries)
- Heavily productive
- A recognized superfood – loaded with anti-oxidants, fiber and Vitamin C
- One of the few northern fruits that make excellent wine
I’d say that’s a compelling case for growing haskap.
For further reading, check out Haskap Canada page or the University of Saskatchewan’s haskap page.
6 Comments
 Who doesn’t love the sweet flavour and melt-in-your-mouth texture of raspberries? Silly question.....everyone does! Thanks to their delightful taste and easy growing nature, raspberries are very common to northern gardens. Raspberries are vigorous, sprawling plants with few disease and pest problems. Their flowers are also an important nectar source for honeybees and other pollinating insects. Red raspberries are the most commonly cultivated but yellow, black and purple types are available. Yellow raspberries are genetically identical to red raspberries except that they lack the red color pigment. Black and purple raspberries are an entirely different story. This article specifically covers red and yellow raspberries. | Find a gardening topic using the search bar. Categories All |
RASPBERRIES
At a Glance
SUNLIGHT NEEDS 6+ hours daily
SOIL NEEDS Organic, moist, well-drained
MATURE PLANT SIZE 3-6’ tall and 2-3’ wide, depending on variety
SPACING 2-3' between plants; 8-10' between rows
GROWTH RATE Fast
LIFE SPAN 10 years or more
FRUITING TIME July through September depending on the variety
EXPECTED YIELDS Varies widely; around 2-3 lbs per bush
POLLINATION NEEDS Self-pollinating
PRUNING REQUIRED Annually
PROVEN PERFORMER Nova, Boyne, Killarney, Latham
VARIETIES
SOIL NEEDS Organic, moist, well-drained
MATURE PLANT SIZE 3-6’ tall and 2-3’ wide, depending on variety
SPACING 2-3' between plants; 8-10' between rows
GROWTH RATE Fast
LIFE SPAN 10 years or more
FRUITING TIME July through September depending on the variety
EXPECTED YIELDS Varies widely; around 2-3 lbs per bush
POLLINATION NEEDS Self-pollinating
PRUNING REQUIRED Annually
PROVEN PERFORMER Nova, Boyne, Killarney, Latham
VARIETIES
Before You Plant - Choosing and Preparing the Planting Site
Select a planting site that receives 6+ hours of daily sun.
Raspberries are best planted in rows with open space for berry picking on both sides. Against a fence or a building is the second best option. Each plant needs 2-3 feet of space within the row. If you want multiple rows, leave 8-10 feet between rows.
Like most fruits, soil quality largely determines the resulting berry flavour, yields, and general plant health. Raspberries like sandy, moist, and fertile soil. Plants grown in clay soils tend to suffer root rot and contract diseases that shorten their life span.
If your soil doesn't fit the ideal profile, don't despair! Some basic soil amending is all that is needed. Incorporate two to six inches of compost or manure to improve soil fertility and help retain water. Peat moss is another useful soil conditioner, as it regulates moisture in both sandy and clay soils.
If you have heavy clay soil, consider growing raspberries in a raised or mounded bed.
Ask your local garden centre if you have any specific concerns regarding your garden soil.
When to Plant
Select a planting site that receives 6+ hours of daily sun.
Raspberries are best planted in rows with open space for berry picking on both sides. Against a fence or a building is the second best option. Each plant needs 2-3 feet of space within the row. If you want multiple rows, leave 8-10 feet between rows.
Like most fruits, soil quality largely determines the resulting berry flavour, yields, and general plant health. Raspberries like sandy, moist, and fertile soil. Plants grown in clay soils tend to suffer root rot and contract diseases that shorten their life span.
If your soil doesn't fit the ideal profile, don't despair! Some basic soil amending is all that is needed. Incorporate two to six inches of compost or manure to improve soil fertility and help retain water. Peat moss is another useful soil conditioner, as it regulates moisture in both sandy and clay soils.
If you have heavy clay soil, consider growing raspberries in a raised or mounded bed.
Ask your local garden centre if you have any specific concerns regarding your garden soil.
When to Plant
| Raspberry canes are usually available as early as mid-April. For the first few weeks, either 1. Keep them in a greenhouse, or 2. "Harden them off" (put them outside during the day but bring them inside at night) By early May, it is normally safe to leave them outside. Keep some frost cover or old sheets at the ready just in case a heavy frost or snow is expected. Potted raspberry bushes are often available throughout the growing season. |  |
| Buying Raspberry Bushes Before buying raspberry bushes, consider what features are most important to you. Is it berry flavour? Proven cold hardiness? High yields? Harvest time? Whatever features are most important to you will guide you to your ideal variety choice. At this point, it’s also useful to understand how summer-bearing and everbearing (fall-bearing) varieties differ. |  |
Summer-bearing vs. Everbearing Raspberries
With raspberries, the roots and crowns are perennial but their shoots (above ground growth) may be annual or biennial.
All summer-bearing raspberries are biennial: they need two seasons to complete their life cycle (to grow, fruit, and then die). Without getting into further complexities, suffice to say that this produces one large raspberry crop in early summer. Summer-bearers usually fruit for a few weeks.
All everbearing raspberries have a mixture of biennial and annual canes. The earliest shoots to emerge in spring will fruit that same fall; the later emerging shoots won't produce fruit until the following summer. The result is two crops of raspberries: a small crop in early summer and a large crop in fall.
The drawback to everbearing raspberries is that the larger crop usually ripens in late summer, when frost may damage the harvest. Therefore the yields are often smaller versus summer-bearers. However, their advantage is that they fruit for longer duration.
Raspberry Varieties
Berry production, fruit quality, hardiness and ripening time can greatly vary between cultivars. To extend the harvest period, consider getting a few varieties with different ripening times.
Also see the Proven Performer Varieties listed at the top of the page, in the Growing Raspberries Overview section.
Summer-bearing Varieties to Consider
With raspberries, the roots and crowns are perennial but their shoots (above ground growth) may be annual or biennial.
All summer-bearing raspberries are biennial: they need two seasons to complete their life cycle (to grow, fruit, and then die). Without getting into further complexities, suffice to say that this produces one large raspberry crop in early summer. Summer-bearers usually fruit for a few weeks.
All everbearing raspberries have a mixture of biennial and annual canes. The earliest shoots to emerge in spring will fruit that same fall; the later emerging shoots won't produce fruit until the following summer. The result is two crops of raspberries: a small crop in early summer and a large crop in fall.
The drawback to everbearing raspberries is that the larger crop usually ripens in late summer, when frost may damage the harvest. Therefore the yields are often smaller versus summer-bearers. However, their advantage is that they fruit for longer duration.
Raspberry Varieties
Berry production, fruit quality, hardiness and ripening time can greatly vary between cultivars. To extend the harvest period, consider getting a few varieties with different ripening times.
Also see the Proven Performer Varieties listed at the top of the page, in the Growing Raspberries Overview section.
Summer-bearing Varieties to Consider
| Summer-bearing raspberries produce fruit over several weeks, starting in July. Here are some summer-bearing varieties to consider:
|  |
Everbearing Varieties to Consider
Everbearing varieties generally fruit later than summer-bearing varieties. They can potentially producing a summer crop and a fall crop BUT in our climate, they are best treated just as a late season producer (see #5 on the Post-Planting Care, below, for more details).
Here are some everbearing varieties to consider:
Everbearing varieties generally fruit later than summer-bearing varieties. They can potentially producing a summer crop and a fall crop BUT in our climate, they are best treated just as a late season producer (see #5 on the Post-Planting Care, below, for more details).
Here are some everbearing varieties to consider:
|  Golden Raspberry Variety |
Planting Time
Note* - If you’re buying bare-root raspberries, there may be additional instructions, such as soaking the roots before planting.
Now that you've prepared the planting site and got your raspberry bushes (refer back to the Before You Plant section if needed), lay out your plants.
Water the raspberry plants and planting holes deeply. Add a handful of bone meal or other similar fertilizer. Once the canes are in the ground, consider adding 2" of bark mulch, sawdust, leaves or lawn clippings around the base of the plants. This helps to retain moisture while suppressing weeds. Water the plants once more.
Install support posts or stakes at this time to avoid disturbing the root system later. Check out gardening books or online sources for support ideas; there are dozens of variations.
Note* - If you’re buying bare-root raspberries, there may be additional instructions, such as soaking the roots before planting.
Now that you've prepared the planting site and got your raspberry bushes (refer back to the Before You Plant section if needed), lay out your plants.
Water the raspberry plants and planting holes deeply. Add a handful of bone meal or other similar fertilizer. Once the canes are in the ground, consider adding 2" of bark mulch, sawdust, leaves or lawn clippings around the base of the plants. This helps to retain moisture while suppressing weeds. Water the plants once more.
Install support posts or stakes at this time to avoid disturbing the root system later. Check out gardening books or online sources for support ideas; there are dozens of variations.
Post-Planting Care
Raspberries grow with such incredible vigour that it’s hard to believe that they need any attention. However, you’ll notice huge differences in berry quality, production and general plant health with just a bit of routine care.
Raspberries grow with such incredible vigour that it’s hard to believe that they need any attention. However, you’ll notice huge differences in berry quality, production and general plant health with just a bit of routine care.
- Water deeply and infrequently - about once per week. Watering is most critical during the fruit development stages (bloom time to harvest).
- Eliminate competition - Keep weeds away from the base of plants by mulching and/or weeding
- Feed annually - With a granular berry fertilizer, all-purpose fertilizer or other balanced fertilizer
- Enrich soil - Add organic matter (compost or manure) annually or as needed to maintain soil fertility
- Prune - Raspberries require yearly pruning to prevent disease and keep growth in check. In fall, prune out all canes that bore fruit (to a few inches above ground level). In spring, thin the canes so that there are 4-6 canes per linear foot. Remove any weak or dead cane tips. Do not allow rows to grow beyond 12-18” wide.
Eating the Harvest
Raspberries are excellent for fresh eating, freezing, or preserving. Here are some serving suggestions:
Raspberries are excellent for fresh eating, freezing, or preserving. Here are some serving suggestions:
- Sprinkle fresh raspberries on top of salads, yogurt, ice cream, or chocolate desserts
- Add frozen raspberries to smoothies (freeze on cookie sheets before bagging)
- Cook into jams or syrups
- Make juice
| Summary With their rapid growth and reliable production, raspberries are one of the most rewarding fruit crops to grow. If you have the space, be sure to include at least a few raspberry bushes in your garden, both for yourself and the bees. |  |
| Blueberries are tasty little gems, packed with nutrition and a wide range of health benefits. Lucky for us, they are also well suited to growing in north-central British Columbia's climate. This is because our soils tend to be slightly acidic, the summers are relatively cool, and rainfall is common.  | Find a gardening topic using the search bar. Categories All |
BLUEBERRIES
At a Glance
SUNLIGHT NEEDS 6+ hours daily
SOIL NEEDS Organic, moist, well-drained, and very acidic
MATURE PLANT SIZE 1-4' high & wide, depending on variety
GROWTH RATE Slow
LIFE SPAN 40 years or more
FRUITING TIME July or August, depending on the variety
EXPECTED YIELDS 5-9 lbs per bush
POLLINATION NEEDS 2 varieties minimum for best production
PRUNING REQUIRED Annually
PROVEN PERFORMER Northblue, Northcountry, Patriot, Chippewa
VARIETIES
SOIL NEEDS Organic, moist, well-drained, and very acidic
MATURE PLANT SIZE 1-4' high & wide, depending on variety
GROWTH RATE Slow
LIFE SPAN 40 years or more
FRUITING TIME July or August, depending on the variety
EXPECTED YIELDS 5-9 lbs per bush
POLLINATION NEEDS 2 varieties minimum for best production
PRUNING REQUIRED Annually
PROVEN PERFORMER Northblue, Northcountry, Patriot, Chippewa
VARIETIES
Before You Plant - Choosing and Preparing the Planting Site
Proper soil preparation is key to maximizing berry production and overall plant performance.
First, choose a planting site that receives 6+ hours of daily sun. Decide roughly how many plants you want. (Required spacing between plants is 2-4' feet.)
If your soil doesn't fit the ideal profile for blueberries (and it probably won't) the soil will need amending. Blueberries thrive in exceptionally acidic, moist, rich, well-drained soils. Generally speaking, most gardens will require:
Ask your local garden centre if you have any specific concerns regarding your garden soil.
Proper soil preparation is key to maximizing berry production and overall plant performance.
First, choose a planting site that receives 6+ hours of daily sun. Decide roughly how many plants you want. (Required spacing between plants is 2-4' feet.)
If your soil doesn't fit the ideal profile for blueberries (and it probably won't) the soil will need amending. Blueberries thrive in exceptionally acidic, moist, rich, well-drained soils. Generally speaking, most gardens will require:
- Adding four to six inches of peat moss to increase soil acidity and regulate water retention
- Adding two to six inches of garden compost, mushroom compost, and/or well-rotted manure to improve soil fertility and water retention
Ask your local garden centre if you have any specific concerns regarding your garden soil.
| When to Plant Blueberries are usually available as early as mid-April. For the first few weeks, either
Blueberry bushes are often available throughout the growing season. |  Blueberries can be planted any time between mid April and early October. |
Buying Blueberry Bushes
Not all blueberries are created equal. Before buying blueberry bushes, decide what features are most important to you. Is it berry size? Berry flavour? Proven cold hardiness? High yields? Whatever feature(s) are most important to you will guide you to your ideal variety choice.
Not all blueberries are created equal. Before buying blueberry bushes, decide what features are most important to you. Is it berry size? Berry flavour? Proven cold hardiness? High yields? Whatever feature(s) are most important to you will guide you to your ideal variety choice.
| For best fruit set, you'll actually require two or more different varieties with the same or overlapping bloom times. You can pair an early season variety with a mid season variety, a mid season variety with a late season variety. Basically, any pollination pairing will work except for an early season with a late season variety. |  Any pollination pairing of blueberries works, except for an early season with a late season variety. |
Blueberry Varieties
Blueberries are also classified according to their bush height: low-bush, half-high, and high-bush. The half-high varieties tend to be the hardiest of the bunch.
Also see the Proven Performer Varieties listed at the top of the page, in the Growing Blueberries Overview section.
Half-High Varieties to Consider
Novelty Varieties to Consider
Planting Time
So you've prepared the planting site and you've got your blueberry bushes (refer back to the Before You Plant section if needed). Next, space your blueberries appropriately. Spacing will range between 2-4', depending on which varieties you've selected.
Water both the blueberry plant and the planting hole deeply. Add a handful of bone meal or other similar fertilizer at planting time. Once the bushes are in the ground add 2-4" of bark mulch, sawdust, or pine needles on top. This will help to acidify the soil and keep the roots cool and moist. Water the plants once more.
Refer to our Guide to Planting Shrubs for further transplanting instructions.
Caring for Blueberries After Planting
Since blueberries are shallow-rooted plants it is critical that their soil never dries out. Water the blueberries deeply and infrequently (about once per week), especially during the first few years of growth.
Also, prune off all flowers for the first 2 years so that the plant to devote all of its energy to establishing a healthy foundation of roots and leaves. A bigger, sturdier bush will produce significantly larger yields for decades to come.
Keeping Established Blueberries Happy
In subsequent seasons, you may need to add more organic matter to maintain the soil's richness and acidity. An annual application of fertilizer in early spring is also a good idea. Use a formula specifically recommended for acid-loving plants or berries. Organic fertilizer options include blood meal, bone meal, kelp, or fish fertilizer.
Since blueberries only bear fruit on one-year old wood, established plants need an annual spring pruning. For pruning instructions, visit the University of Minnesota's blueberry page here.
Eating the Harvest
Blueberries are a versatile crop. They are delicious fresh, frozen, baked, or preserved. Here are a few serving suggestions:
Blueberries are also classified according to their bush height: low-bush, half-high, and high-bush. The half-high varieties tend to be the hardiest of the bunch.
Also see the Proven Performer Varieties listed at the top of the page, in the Growing Blueberries Overview section.
Half-High Varieties to Consider
- Chippewa: A reliable producer of sweet, large, firm sky-blue berries. Grows 3-5' high and wide. A mid-season variety
- Northblue: Perhaps the highest yielding variety for our area; berries are large, sweet, firm, and dark blue. Grows 3-4' high and wide. A mid-season variety
- Northcountry: Produces an abundance of small to medium, sweet, mild sky blue berries. Grows 2-4' high and wide. A mid-season variety
- Northland: A small to medium sized, dark blue berry with wild blueberry flavour. Grows up to 4' high and wide. A mid to late season variety
- St. Cloud: A high yielding variety with medium sized, firm, flavourful, dark blue berries. Excellent for fresh eating. Grows 4' high and wide. An early season variety
- Patriot: A hardy, reliable producer of sweet, large berries. Grows 3-4' high. An early season variety
- Duke: A high-yielding variety producing large, mild-tasting berries. Grows 4' high and wide. An early season variety
- Reka: A high-yielding variety that produces medium sized, tasty, firm blue fruit. Grows 4' high and wide. An early-season variety
- Bluecrop: Produces large, sweet, mild tasting berries. Grows 4' high and wide. A mid-season variety
- Chandler: Produces the largest sized blueberries in the world! Grows 4' high and wide. A late-season variety that produces over many weeks
Novelty Varieties to Consider
- Razz: developed in the 1930's but remained obscure because of its unsuitability for commercial production. Large, powder blue berries have a unique raspberry flavor. Grows 3-4' high. A mid-season variety.
- Pink Popcorn: Introduced in 2014, this variety produces high yields of medium sized pink berries with the typical blueberry flavour. Grows 3-4' high. A mid season variety.
Planting Time
So you've prepared the planting site and you've got your blueberry bushes (refer back to the Before You Plant section if needed). Next, space your blueberries appropriately. Spacing will range between 2-4', depending on which varieties you've selected.
Water both the blueberry plant and the planting hole deeply. Add a handful of bone meal or other similar fertilizer at planting time. Once the bushes are in the ground add 2-4" of bark mulch, sawdust, or pine needles on top. This will help to acidify the soil and keep the roots cool and moist. Water the plants once more.
Refer to our Guide to Planting Shrubs for further transplanting instructions.
Caring for Blueberries After Planting
Since blueberries are shallow-rooted plants it is critical that their soil never dries out. Water the blueberries deeply and infrequently (about once per week), especially during the first few years of growth.
Also, prune off all flowers for the first 2 years so that the plant to devote all of its energy to establishing a healthy foundation of roots and leaves. A bigger, sturdier bush will produce significantly larger yields for decades to come.
Keeping Established Blueberries Happy
In subsequent seasons, you may need to add more organic matter to maintain the soil's richness and acidity. An annual application of fertilizer in early spring is also a good idea. Use a formula specifically recommended for acid-loving plants or berries. Organic fertilizer options include blood meal, bone meal, kelp, or fish fertilizer.
Since blueberries only bear fruit on one-year old wood, established plants need an annual spring pruning. For pruning instructions, visit the University of Minnesota's blueberry page here.
Eating the Harvest
Blueberries are a versatile crop. They are delicious fresh, frozen, baked, or preserved. Here are a few serving suggestions:
- Sprinkle fresh blueberries onto salads, yogurt, oatmeal, or pancakes
- Freeze them for smoothies
- Make jams and jellies
- Bake them into muffins or pies
| Summary Blueberries are one of the easiest berries to grow in our climate. They are hardy, long-lived, and disease resistant. As ornamental shrubs, they aren't slouches either; their stunning fall colors range from coral to orange to red. For further reading, check out the University of Minnesota's page on Blueberries for the Home Gardener. U of M is an authority on the topic as they have bred many of the half-high blueberry varieties currently on the market. |  |